Sunday, March 9, 2008

Peking Duck - Or All That Glitters Is Not Gold

One can't go to Peking without having some Peking Duck. (Peking is the old name for Beijing, which is the Mandarin form)

My tour guide for the day recommened the 'best' place to me and gave me the address, etc. of Quan Ju De. I took a cab to the place, but later discovered it was only about five blocks from my hotel, so I walked back. (No wonder the cab driver gave me a funny look, when I handed him my little Chinese note of where I was going.)

It was a little confusing to find it, as there was a huge name sign in metal on one street (note the name Quan Jude Roast Peking Duck - it had my name in it, so I figured it must be an omen),
but the place was actually around the corner in a very showy place that was once a small palace of some emporer's son. I've forgotten which one.















One took an elevator up several flights to what I imagine at one time must have been an elaborately decorated ballroom. The glittery/showy decorations are still there. I was seated in a large foyer to wait for a table on lovely cushioned chairs, but a young lady in a long dress and gloves. It was all very grand, and apparently the place has been famous for serving Peking Duck since 1846.

I was a little surprised at the price, though I suppose I shouldn't have been. It was 98 yuan (rmb) for a half a duck. I was looking for a smaller portion, but they assured me it would be fine. It turned out nothing came with it, so I ordered a 'pancake', which was kind of like thin tortillas, and a glass of fresh papaya and pineapple juice. The whole meal cost 156 yuan, and that was like a day and a half of meals for me otherwise.

The chef always brings out the roast duck on a platter and carves it at one of the 'stations' in the room. First of all he slices delicate strips of duck skin, which a waiter serves to you along with slivered green onions and a dark brown sauce. Too greasy for me!

Then a plate of sliced roast duck arrives. (It's in the middle of the photo on the left. )

It was very tasty, but all the skin was on it, and I suspect that's supposed to be one of the best parts, but I discarded it all. As a result, the plate that the meat was served on had the pile of skin left on it, which seemed bigger than the original serving I'd been given. (See the photo to the right.) I actually didn't like the juice I'd ordered either, so I was still a little hungry when I went to bed that night.

I hadn't known what else to order with it, and while I was surfing the net tonight, I came across a place advertising a Peking Duck banquet, which I think might have been a better option. Maybe next time I'm in Beijing I'll do that instead.