Thursday, February 28, 2008

Touring Old Shanghai

Sometimes called China Town or Old Town, the older section of Shanghai is a place tourists go to see more traditional buildings and the market.

There is also a garden nearby—the Yu Yuan (The You garden), and it as using the Chinese characters for this place that I managed to catch a taxi to the right place. I use a card from the hotel, written in the Chinese language and show it to the taxi driver to get home again.

This was a fair jaunt from my hotel, so I had a chance once again to see some of the scenery---a myriad of skyscrapers and tons of construction. All quite amazing architecture. I don’t know the names of most of them, but just seeing them was interesting to me, especially when they were juxtaposed next to some of the old ones, where there are obvious European influences, as well as ancient Asian ones.











The colours were magnificent and bright, and the architecture decorative and more what one would expect in the Orient. The market was a varied mix of food stalls and shops, which sold beautiful silk rugs, jade jewellery, paint brushes, clothing (kimonos) and everything in between.







I was especially accosted many times by young entrepreneurs who were either trying to sell their art, or selling watches and purses. They do not like taking no for an answer and for a while I thought I was back in Egypt or Mexico. Walking through the indoor markets was a distasteful experience of everyone calling at you to come inside their shops to see what they had, so I departed as quickly as I could. Some got quite angry if you walked out.

I was happy to leave and get back to the peacefulness of my hotel. Tomorrow afternoon I fly to Guangzhou (GZ), and I am ready to leave. Shanghai has been a good learning experience and so I will know what to watch for when I get to GZ. It will be interesting to look for a place to live too.


























Szechwan Food in Shangahai

I had the honour of being invited to a supper at the five star Shangra-La Hotel in the Pudong area of Shanghai last night. The Shangra-La hotels are a chain of about 70 hotels throughout Asia and the Middle East. One night’s stay in a standard room is about 1845 rmb/night. (Where I am staying the cost for my room is 258 rmb/night) [One rmb equals 0.138 Canadian, so my hotel room is about $35 cdn]

The Pudong area of Shanghai was quite a ways away from where I am staying in the Hungkou district and it took us at least an hour to get there. This is a similar route to the one I took from the airport, but the first time I’d seen it in the daylight. When I arrived it was already getting dark. The skyscrapers are quite amazing here and there are hardly any buildings that are simply square. One that we passed by was so tall I was only able to get the top and the bottom of it, not the whole thing.

Someone I was with happened to have photographs of Dubai and I saw a seven star hotel there….the isnide walls are painted with gold and everything glitters. (A standard room costs about 220,000 rmb/night there...not sure if I got this price right, but will ask again today.)


We started off with drinks/refreshments, and I chose hot chocolate, which was served with a wonderful flair. They give you a tall glass with hot milk, then a selection of medium and dark chocolate wafers that you add until you get the flavour you prefer.


Someone else had a rose flower tea that was very pretty. I think it had something else in it too.

Szechwan food is quite different from other kinds of food and is often quite spicy/hot, which was certainly the case for some foods last night. [Szechwan or sheng province is located in the Upper Yangtze Valley in the southwestern part of China. [Whenever I hear the word "Szechwan", I immediately think of the play I studied in university. The Good Person of Szechwan, also known as The Good Woman of Setzuan, was written by the German playwright, poet, theatre critic, and theorist Bertolt Brecht. The play was produced throughout Europe in the 1940s.]


Traditionally in China one starts a meal with the cold foods, so we had (left to right) cold pork (small slivers of ham), a cold vegetable dish (strips of Chinese root vegetables), cold sliced goose, rolled cucumber skins (quite delicious) and (shown in the second photo at the top) a black fungus and vegetable dish (not quite the same as mushrooms).

















Then we were served snails with what we think was macadamia type nuts, chicken with red peppers (very hot, especially the seeds), cooked pea shoots, vegetarian biscuits, river fish, and a tofu dish. There were also Shanghai dumplings (not shown). The presentations of the dishes were quite impressive.








The finale for a Chinese meal is a platter of fruit: watermelon, another kind of melon kind of like a cross between a cantaloupe and honeydew, and dragon fruit. It has seeds in it that look like a kiwi, but there the similarity ends. The flesh is white and the texture kind of like watermelon.

Otherwise known as pitaya (huǒ lóng guǒ (火龍果/火龙), the dragonfruit sets on the cactus-like tree 30-50 days after flowering.

The Dragon Fruit or Pitaya is a stunningly beautiful fruit with an intense colour and shape, magnificent flowers and a delicious taste.







The skin of the dragon fruit is a thin rind. The skin is usually covered in scales, and the center of the fruit is made up of a red or white, sweet tasting pulp. The flowers of the dragon fruit plant only bloom at night and usually only live for one night. Pollination happens at this time to allow the fruit to emerge. http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dragon-fruit.htm and www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitaya



I am learning more all the time about the different foods here. I've discovered that the crackled eggs in the brown liquid are called Tea Eggs, and that the green plant with little red root tips is clover. Preserved or 1,000 eggs are done in formaldehyde and other weird things, so that I won't ever eat another one again! And it's true they do serve dog meat, especially in Guangzhou (also cats).



I've been advised as to where to buy food and where not to buy it, so I will be avoiding open market places unless I'm buying fruit that can be peeled (bananas and oranges), though I'm still going to be leery of them as well. I'll be sticking to one of three major outlets, like Carrefour (A French international company that sells almost anything you could ever want) and a couple of others, and buying only packaged food (such as lettuce in plastic bags).



The worst part about most places is that they use MSG on their food. I've had a few reactions to it (flushing and headaches) and there definitely was some on the food last night. I still have a headache! Apparently drinking coke somewhat counteracts the effects. Obviously I didn't drink enough of it last night, or not quick enough.



It will be good when I can cook for myself. I've learned that "mei yu weijing" (may you way jing) means no MSG, so I will also be saying that a lot.


On to another day of adventures....

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Shanghai - One Week Later

Ni Hao

The weather has turned sunny and warm and Shanghai is as bustling as ever. I’ve met some people now who speak English, though they are from other countries and English is not their original language. (One is from Sweden and another from Moldova and each speak several other languages too). One woman has lived here for 14 months and is studying Chinese (Mandarin). She speaks the language very well, which has come in handy for ordering things from menus. She’s also been very helpful in explaining some of the culture here.

I’m learning a few words and phrases, but have realized that it is a very difficult language to learn. There is no Chinese Alphabet, just symbols. "Our [western] alphabets consist of symbols or letters which have no meaning on their own. Instead, Alphabets are phonetic systems where the individual sounds of the language are represented with letters. Chinese, by contrast, uses pictographs or ideographs. Here, each chinese symbol represents an object, concept or idea.

There are probably 40-50,000 characters, but only about 6,000 are essential in everyday use and Chinese students acquire these in the course of several years. It is thought that a person should know at least 3,000 characters to be able to understand newspapers.

http://www.logoi.com/notes/chinese_alphabet.html - very good web site

http://www.chinese-tools.com/characters/alphabet.html

http://www.chinese-symbols.com/chinese-alphabet-symbols.html

I doubt I’ll ever be able to read or write the language using the Chinese symbols without doing some intensive studying. I will buy a phrase book once I get to Guangzhou to be able to speak the most important words and phrases. (Luckily, I don’t need to know Chinese to teach English as I’m not to be translating/interpreting, but using conversational English.)

In the meantime to help me learn the language, I am writing down the words using the western alphabet with my own system of pronunciation. The key is to speak the words quickly and they understand what you say. If I take me time over the words in an attempt to pronounce them right, they don’t have a clue what I’ve said; best to kind of mumble quickly.

I’m getting used to the squatting toilets now and after what I was told about people actually standing on the seats of the sitting ones, they may be the most sanitary. Using them makes me feel like I'm out in the countryside squatting behind a bush. One has to carry toilet tissue or Kleenex with them at all times though, and flushing tissues in public places in not done (put into a wastebakset instead), which means bathrooms/toilets can stink to high heaven. Squatting toilets come in many styles, some narrower than others so the aim has to be good. I like my hygienic sitting toilet in my hotel room.

I’m finding myself quite disconcerted by not being able to access a great many web sites due to government protective firewalls. I can’t even access my own blogs, so I respectfully ask that no one make comments to me on my blogsites as I can’t read them. I welcome e-mails though to my usual address: jsilverthorne@sasktel.net I also welcome news from home as I can’t access any news sites, and especially not the CBC.

Tomorrow (Friday) afternoon I hope to take a tour of Shanghai to see a little more of the city (the touristy part, I guess that shows up in most of the photos about Shanghai) before I leave on Saturday afternoon.

Zai jian (good-bye – literally ‘again’ and ‘to meet’) for now!

Sunday, February 24, 2008

One More Day in Shanghai

Things are good here and I am so happy to be able to experience the things that I am…it’s a real chance in a lifetime.

It’s quite different being the minority here….sometimes people treat me like I’m invisible and the next time they are laughing and joking with me, even if we can’t converse. I still haven’t gone beyond the Ni Hao greeting in Mandarin, but I’m using it all the time now. I need someone who speaks both languages to tell me more…this will come I’m sure. Right now, I’ve been fortunate that strangers are around to help me out when I least expect it…. like today when I wanted to do some printing and double-sided photocopying in a little Kodak shop across the street. A man came in and overheard the conversation and began explaining to them in Chinese what I wanted, and making sure with me in English that what he was telling them was right.

I go to a little corner store regularly and the two older women all wave and smile and say hello to me…and they try and ask me things or tell me things….I know what they are talking about…like how wet the weather was today or wanting to know where I am from, but neither of us speaks the others’ language…it’s quite wonderful to still be able to communicate.

Today I was in the little restaurant I’ve been in only once before (the one near KFC) and the staff began talking to me (in Chinese). When I took a photo of my bowl of wonton soup, the family at the next table began laughing and so did the staff. I laughed too and explained I was a tourist from Canada…they had no idea what I said except for maybe the word Canada. When the customers left they waved and smiled and laughed with me again. Then one of the cooks began trying to speak to me in English. It was fun! The soup was the best wonton soup I’ve ever tasted too!

The key I've found to communicating with most people is to smile. They know you're friendly then. Body language is important too.

I sauntered off down the street to buy some snacks, which would suffice for my evening meal...I'd had breakfast at 7:00 am and now lunch at 2:30 pm, so I wouldn't need much. Just something to tide me over until 7:00 am the next morning when breakfast was served in the hotel again.

I found a little stand that sold popcorn, but when I tasted it there was a slightly sweet flavour...definitely something had been added. Still it was good. I bought a couple of those little stuffed buns too and tucked them away in my little fridge. I also have some fruit leftover from yesterday, so I have enough to keep me going for awhile. I can stay snug in my hotel for the night.

It's still raining off and on and cloudy. There is also some very think fog from all the moisture too (not smog this time, although I suppose there is some mixed in there somewhere).


February 26 - Tuesday
Never did have supper last night, but pleased that I didn't wake up until 4:00 a.m. today.

My cousin in England sent me an e-mail of an incredible trip to a Teahouse. If you're interested in seeing the climb to it, I also found it on the Web at: http://materialicio.us/2007/09/17/a-tea-house-way-up-high/.

Last night I realized that I am over the initial culture shock and well on my way to simply living here and taking things as they come. I have a couple of favourite places to go and I’m getting the hang of things so I’m feeling more comfortable. I'm glad I've had these few days early to adjust and I’m also ready to explore a little more so will see where I get to today.

Breakfast was in the hotel again and although they had similar things from the day before, there were quite a few added features and I've since discovered the names for some of the things.

Besides yesterday's fare of plan gruel (called congee), they also had a fancier version with greens and mushrooms in it and some kind of flavouring. There were two kinds of stir-fried greens (Water spinach was one and the other was possibly bok choy, though mostly leaves, and some kind of other leafy veggie with partial roots). Fried noodles, and fried eggs joined the array along with bacon and pumpkin cake (steamed with sesame seeds on top - I didn't care for it much). The plain cake was there too, along with "sweet fermented rice circle son" (a sweet soup kind of thing-not my favourite food either).

There were also boiled eggs, but they were cracked all over and sitting in a brown liquid...I already had a fried egg, so I passed on it...my plate was quite full enough, though I'll try them another day). I had more rice with egg and tried several steamed buns, passing on the kind I'd had the day before. Instead I tried a steam bun with red bean filling (didn't like this either), and a veggie filled steamed bun, which was delicious. I had a couple of those. For cold dishes there was some kind of pickled (I think) fish. I only took a wee little bit and somehow it got mixed in with the rest of my food so I don't know what it really tasted like. There were also peanuts, pickled vegetables trips and pickled mushrooms. And my favourite Pot Herb Mustard and Green Soy Beans.

I investigated a little more into the beverage choices and found red tea, coffee, hot and cold mild, and juice. There was also toast, butter, strawberry jam and ketchup. To be honest the ‘English’ food (fired eggs and bacon) didn’t fit with the rest of the breakfast. I much preferred the Chinese foods.

I know I was having problems with the food when I first came, but the Chinese eat very healthy with all their green veggies and no sweets (well not much anyway…what is a desert here is not very sweet). Once you get accustomed to the food a little, it’s quite good. (Yes, I’m still avoiding the stuff I think of as weird – crocodile, ostrich, chicken heads and feet, etc.)

Eating the Canadian fast food junk isn’t very healthy and I will avoid it at all costs (though they have a Chinese twist to it, and it might actually be better than at home.) For now, going to KFC, Pizza Hut, MacDonald’s etc is a last resort. I’ve now found a little restaurant where I’ve come to know the staff and they appreciate that I like their food and can use chopsticks. I’ll go there for lunch again today, though not a noon when it’s really busy.

I’ve found I can wield chopsticks and slurp out of bowls like the best of them!


Now on to exploring more interesting cultural things....

Shanghai-Another Day

Daybreak starts here about 6:00 am…there are not many lights left on in buildings and on the streets overnight, I’d guess in an effort to save power. Like much of Europe, the hotels have a card key that activates the power. This stops excess usage if people leave their rooms with lights on, because you have to take the card to get back in again.

I bought a special adapter for my computer (the black one), but it doesn’t stay in the wall plugs properly. For some reason it bounces back out again. The only way I can use it is if I borrow a hotel adapter, which goes in between the two. Even so, the prongs from my adapter barely stay in, though it works. When I try to push it in farther, I don’t get any power. Very strange, but also looks precariously dangerous to me (coming from a background household of electricians and technicians.) I think I’ll end up buying an adapter locally. They are in little shops all over here as there are at least five universities in this area, many with foreign students.

The smog is heavy in Shanghai today. To quote from a couple of Web sites:
“Most mornings smog hangs low over Shanghai's imposing skyline — the result of using low-grade coal as the primary fuel for cooking, heating and running factories. Lately, the air is becoming even more polluted as bicycles are replaced by automobiles and buses. To ease the problem there are limitations on the ownership of cars and stricter air quality regulations for factories. The city is also slowly rebuilding its infrastructure, beginning with a public transportation network and new subway system. Above ground, new highways ease traffic congestion as well as link Shanghai with surrounding industrial and bedroom communities.” Excerpt from http://www.pbs.org/journeytoplanetearth/hope/shanghai.html

“Coal fired power generators contribute to the smog overcasting Shanghai. Presently China burns more coal than US and India combined, ... http://home.wangjianshuo.com/archives/20051129_polution_in_shanghai_part_ii.htm

So my suspicions were right! It’s not fog! Some days it reminds me of the smog in Toronto on bad days, other days it’s much worse here. Yesterday afternoon was one of the better days, and I actually saw blue sky.

This morning I started my day early – 2:00 am again…had to wait for breakfast until 7:00 am though. I realize I’ve been going on about the food conditions here, and I’ll try to make my breakfast the last one for awhile. It’s just that it’s such a major change from what I’m used to, even from my other travels. And there are some very intriguing things available.

I’ll have other things to talk about soon, once I start my training and do a little more sightseeing…I’ve been warned that I need to take a cab to get around here, otherwise I might become hopelessly lost…I can see why they say this though I’m more confident now that I have a map. Either way travel takes forever because the city is enormous and I’m not sure how to get to the highlights. If I wasn’t still getting over jetlag and trying to work on my novel, I might be a little more adventurous too. So far I’ve just done walking tours around the hotels I’ve been in. It’s been enough to absorb for the time being.

It’s definitely Monday today and the traffic here is amazing…the streets are clogged with vehicles, pedestrians and cyclists…..

And on to breakfast: Chinese buffet style.

Hot Items included (with English names as they were printed on cards), plus my take on them follows (pics are from left to right where there are two items in one shot):

Gruel – rice cooked mushy in lots of water. It has little flavour…perhaps not even salt, because it is so bland.

Stir Fry Vegetables - more of the water spinach stalks with strips of mushrooms, I think – tasty (water spinach is known as a noxious weed in the U.S.)

“Also known as water convolvulus and swamp cabbage” (http://www.asiafood.org/glossary_2.cfm?wordid=3322)

“Water Spinach (Ipomoea aquatica) is a member of the Convolvulaceae (Morning glory) family and the same genus as the sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas)” http://www.worldcrops.org/crops/Water-Spinach.cfm

(French Fries-no card for it) – pre-packaged frozen N. American kind

Egg Fried Rice
– straightforward and tasty

Boil The Egg – typical brown-shelled boiled eggs – no surprises here

Steamed Roll – tasty with bits of colourful veggies in them - kind of like a boiled perogie, but solid

Meat Bun – the dough was again like a boiled perogie, but had a dab of ground meat inside that was boiled with the entire thing. (I had two of those.)


Cold items:
Preserved Egg – this had a strange jellied kind of texture, but not a great deal of flavour, kind of like jellied hocks or something, but a gruesome look to it or beautiful colours, depending on how you saw it.

“Century egg, also known as preserved egg, hundred-year egg, thousand-year egg and thousand-year-old egg is a Chinese cuisine ingredient...” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Century_egg

“Preserved duck eggs are a traditional Chinese delicacy, and although known as "1000-year-old eggs" they are rarely more than 100 days old. According to radio-show host Chef Meng, it's a common dish, sometimes known as pidan, that is made by coating duck or chicken eggs in a clay-like plaster of red earth, garden lime, salt, wood ash, and tea. To prevent the eggs from sticking, and for an attractive presentation, the chef advises layering and wrapping individual eggs in rice husks and packing them into an airtight container.” http://ask.yahoo.com/20011114.html

Pot Herb Mustard and Green Soy Beans – I’d definitely eat more of this mixture

Mushroom – sliced and cooked – these were good too. I suspect they were Shitake mushrooms – “Long a symbol of longevity in Asia because of their health-promoting properties, shiitake mushrooms have been used medicinally by the Chinese for more than 6,000 years.” http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=122

Red Salad?? – this one didn’t have a name beside it and I don’t know what it was, but as soon as I saw the red sauce on this mix of veggies I knew it would be hot and it was, but good. I ate it in small amounts.

Cake – a light white cake that tasted like a sponge cake with a subtle flavour

Toast – not your regular white wheat flour toast, I suspect it was a rice flour bread as the texture sure tasted like it. They had small pats of butter, which I spread with my chopstick…no other utensils. (There was an amusing notice on the toaster, but I couldn’t make any sense to it…someone got carried away with translating…)

Juice – one flavour, which had a mix of fruits in it…orange for sure, but something more mellow too.

I tried a little of everything! (Well, except for the obvious - French fries, and condiments like strawberry jam, cane sugar, soy sauce, and the tea – I thought it was coffee so didn’t bother, then realized later it was tea. Tea is quite good here, of course.)

Now it’s raining, and I haven’t planned on doing much except writing this suits me fine! Maybe I’ll even take a late morning nap and see if I can’t get on track with my sleeping to align with time here.

I'm in a warm hotel room now, so nothing much else matters.