Friday, February 22, 2008

Arriving in Shanghai & First Impressions

Ni Hao (pronounced 'knee how", meaning hello)

Landing in Shanghai was a little rough, but safe. The airport is maybe the most impressive I've ever seen: (photos from the Web)









It didn't take us too long to get through immigration, but waiting for our luggage was funny. We managed to find carousel 12 as directed, and piece after piece went by and was picked up. All of a sudden there were no more bags coming out of the shute and several of us didn't have ours. Then someone noticed that ours were now coming out of number 14...not sure why they switched in the middle like that, but I was glad to get my luggage.


My next stop was a washroom. Imagine my surprise when I opened a cubicle door and found a hole in the floor. I was in the row of squatting toilets. I decided there was no way I was using it. I was too cramped from sitting for 12 hours and I might never get up again. Then I looked across and saw the stalls had "sitting toilet" signs, so I dashed in one of those instead.

Going through customs was swift and I was soon walking down lengthy corridors to the exit and looking for a taxi. As I approached the stand where a line-up of people waited a woman came towards me and asked if I needed a taxi. I thought she was going to direct me to one, but instead she told me to follow her. She grabbed my suitcase and trundled it along. I instinctively went with her....she was a woman, right, and I trusted her...next thing I know I was being led across the road, over a boulevard and into a parkade...that's when it dawned on me that I might not be going where I thought I was. I asked her again where her car was and she pointed. By this time, I could see her taxi cab, so I continued following.

She was one confident woman, honking and flashing lights to get everyone out of her way, and that was just to get out of the parkade. Once on the road she roared through traffic, dipping and weaving from one lane to the next, always gaining speed and distance. I admired her driving and told her so. She asked (by gestures) if I drove and when I nodded the affirmative we formed a bond. It became stronger when I indicated I could drive a standard like she did. I told her she drove like me. That set her to laughing and we continued on in silent camaraderie.

My hotel was not in the nucleus of Shanghai, but one of the outlying areas (Hongkou) and it took us a long time to get there. I dozed off at one point and when I woke up it was dark out and I hoped she was taking me to the right place. I would never have known if she'd have taken the long way. But I quickly dismissed this negative thought, because I felt safe with her.

She eventually pulled up in front of the my hotel and helped me with my luggage. 170 RMB's later. This was good as I was expecting to pay around that amount (160), and we had hit rush hour traffic and got held up in a tunnel for a very long time. On a map http://www.hoteltravel.com/china/shanghai/maps.htm, Pudong to Hongkou doesn't look far, but it takes over an hour (I think, I forgot to time it, but my flight arrived at 4:00 pm and with going through immigration and customs and getting luggage, it was 6:30 pm by the time I got to the hotel and we'd moved from daylight to darkness.)

Paying for my room brought another shock...the hotel didn't accept credit cards, except for Chinese ones. They wanted cash...US dollars or RMB's. (The cost of the room for one night was the same as the expected cab ride-160 RMB.) I only had enough to pay for half my time here, but will find a bank soon to pay for the rest. I've not come across any ATM's yet, which is what I relied on when I did my Mediterranean trip. I really must learn the value of the money soon too otherwise I won't have to worry about what to eat...I won't be able to pay for it anyway.
Finding my room was another interesting learning experience. I was given a key for room 519, but when I got off on the fifth floor (the top of the hotel) the room numbers started with 8. I later discovered every floor number starts with 8...confused me for a few moments though.

My room is nice enough, though a little chilly. I thought they were coming to adjust a unit way up at the top of one wall, but they keep bringing me more blankets instead. (the ceiling is at least ten feet tall).

My bed is also as hard as a slab of granite. I didn't sleep too well the first night, because I was cold and uncomfortable, but maybe with the extra blanket, I can put it under me to make it softer.

I also forgot they don't usually use bathtubs here, so showers it will have to be. There is a doorbell unit in my room, which doesn't work for me, but whenever other doorbells are pushed, mine rings...I've unplugged it. I didn’t like the middle of the night interruptions.

There is a basket of 'goodies' for sale on the desk in my room. One of them has some English on it, so I know it's a box of condoms, but I have no idea what the other pink round packages contain...and I don't want to have to pay 10 RMB's to find out.

I have Internet although it doesn't always work. They flipped some switch in the office this morning to get it going again, and I'm using it at peak times so I imagine there is quite a bit of draw on the system here.

I also have a service guide, but the only thing English about it is the cover. Everything inside is entirely in Chinese, so I think this hotel is not normally for international guests.







Looking out my window, there are an incredible amount of tall highrises...apartments by the look of them, but I couldn't get a shot with the entire height in them.




















I eventually went out and took various shots of the scenes I saw around me. There are actual bicycle lanes on both sides of the streets that are as wide as traffic lanes. These are for cyclists and moped riders. Many people rode double. Shanghai is very busy, with lots of people and traffic though not as busy as I expected it to be, except during rush hours. However, I am not in Shanghai proper. If you want to see what it's really like, check this site for a photo: http://www.sinoptic.ch/shanghaiflash/texts/pdf/200302_Shanghai.Flash.pdf.







I was told by my taxi driver that there were 35 million people here, but upon doing research I see it's more like over 20 million, though I can't quite determine if this includes all the millions of migrant workers who come and live here for six months of more or not. Nor can I figure out what is Shanghai proper and what includes all the surrounding areas. I found one source that listed Shanghai as the fifth most populous city in the world, behind Tokyo, New York, Mexico City, Sao Paola. Yet I know Cairo has 22 million people, but it all depends on how the authorities are counting as to what ranks at the top.

Drivers don't seem to respect walkers or bike riders, always in a hurry to get where they're going. I began crossing a street at a walk sign with others beside and behind me, but I almost gotten take out by a taxi driver, who turned in front of me. He went by so fast I didn't have time to react.
Signage was sometimes translated into English...I'd guess for major thoroughfares, but for the most part would be in Mandarin.












A shoemaker in a little shop came to my rescue today...when I was in the Vancouver airport I suddenly realized the sole of my left shoe was loose. I figured I had to buy a pair of shoes first chance I could get, but only a block from the hotel, I came across this little shop. The owner was too shy to have his photo taken, but he let me take one of his place. I stood there with one shoe off while he fixed it. People thought I was a little strange, but then I've had lots of curious looks from people, being a Caucasian I suspect.












When I got back to the hotel I gazed out watching the scene below. There was a street cleaner, using the branch of a tree instead of a broom to sweep away the debris.

It's only 9 degrees Celsius today, so I'm glad I brought my warm coat. There was also a strong wind and I wished I'd worn my toque too...I'd left it in the hotel room, but I have it with me, along with a pair of gloves. All will be coming with me in the future.

At one point, I'd asked my taxi driver yesterday if the thick haze in the sky was fog or smog. She answered, "Yes." She didn't have a clue what I was asking so I'm none the wiser. I think it must be smog though as there are a number of people with masks over their faces.



Coming to China is a definite culture shock....far more than I've experienced to date. I'm going to hole up in my hotel room for the evening, get a good night's sleep and tackle it all fresh tomorrow.